The
Mushmouth Series
By David W. Skok (2004)
I’m
not sure how much time I spent at the vise the first fifteen years I
tied flies, but I do know that it feels like I spent nearly that same
amount of time unwrapping the wings and tails of fouled streamers while
fishing. Nothing makes me
crazier than a fly whose materials just won’t stay where I put them.
I’ve even been known to throw a brand new fly overboard if it
fouls more than once in every twenty casts or so.
You can picture it. You
just made a perfect cast and it should be a sure thing first strip, but
the fly makes it all the way back with nary a nibble.
You’re dumbfounded. What?
Ah, it’s fouled. This
pain is felt particularly by shorebound fishermen who may wait a day for
a chance at a fleeting false albacore blitz or a cruising twenty-pound
striper, only to find that their only opportunity was blown by a
disfigured bug. The
Mushmouth series is a quick and simple solution to this common streamer
problem. The Impetus
Chris
Aubut and I first caught skipjack tuna with the Mushmouth.
Offshore fishermen sometimes refer to skipjacks as "mushmouths"
or "mushies" as they will often fall off the hook when brought
in on heavy tackle at trolling speed.
Chris called me a few Julys ago to clue me in on a skipjack
bonanza that was going down around Newport, Rhode Island.
Skipjacks don’t usually appear in our Southern New England
waters until sometime in August or early September (if they show at all)
when the water temperature peaks. The
summer of 1999 was unusually warm, however, with most days finding the
mercury over ninety degrees Fahrenheit.
Coincidentally, a large finger of warm Gulf Stream water had also
pointed its way north straight towards Newport.
This highway of tropical water led the oceanic bonito and some
small bluefin tuna to a nice, deep pocket of tepid water and an
unusually large body of immature oceanic herring.
If this sounds like a saltwater flyrodder’s dream come true,
then you’re half right: the
table was set and the bell was ringing, but we could hardly buy a bite
to save our lives! The oceanic herring were tiny – really tiny.
These baitfish were the length of a dime and only as thick as a
matchstick! On top of that,
skipjack tuna often feed at the surface in fighter jet formation and
“foam” when on small baits like these.
Foaming skippies (or other tuna – I have witnessed false
albacore, school bluefin tuna and frigate mackerel feed this way) move
in wide schools of ten to several hundred individuals, all moving in a
singular direction at the same speed (fast!), essentially mowing down
every baitfish in their path. The
combination of these truly minute baits and the skipjack’s propensity
to feed in this unusual manner made for a tough bite to say the least.
Chris’ clients had taken fish on large, six-inch 3-D Fleyes
made almost entirely of Flashabou on previous days, but they were slow
to tie and not as effective as he had hoped. The
Concept The
Mushmouth Series of flies were all designed to be non-fouling,
quick-to-tie baitfish and squid imitations. The original version
was made primarily of Angel Hair or Wing 'N Flash and since then
innumerous variations have been created to match different baitfish with
different materials. Any non-tapered synthetic or natural material
can be used. Popular
choices are Slinkyfibre, Unique Hair, Bozo Hair, PolyBear, Mega Mushy
flash and natural yak hair. Tiers
will find that each material has its own distinct purpose as their
length and denier vary. As
you might expect, longer and thicker fibers are best suited for big
flies and shorter, finer fibers are best for smaller offerings. The
common element of all Mushmouth family members is a stiff, yet flexible
spine of Super Hair and Softex or Soft Body Glue that extends past the
hook bend. This Super Hair / Softex spine keeps the fly from
fouling during the cast. It
also helps the fly retain its profile when fished in fast current and
protects it from becoming a one-fish wonder. Only the Mushy Squid
and the Whitebait Mushy deviate from this theme and in both cases
another material was substituted for the Super Hair tail solely because
those patterns warranted it. Why
so much glue? We
tied the first few Mushmouths without a spine or any glue in the dorsal
area of the fly and they did catch fish, but they also wrapped and
tangled like there was no tomorrow. We brought the remaining flies
home and coated them with epoxy to reduce fouling and we ended up with
just about the worst looking Surf Candies the world had ever seen!
I figured there had to be an easier, quicker and cleaner way to make
this fly worthwhile, so I went home and experimented and found that a
spine of a one-part glue like Softex made the tying process a whole lot
easier. Don't
worry that the fly may turn out too stiff. Remember that there are
always a zillion short, wispy strands of flash hanging out of the fly
that wave in the current and provide the illusion of movement.
It is important, however, that you don’t make the tail
extension from epoxy or extend it too far past the bend as this will
keep striking fish from getting hooked. A
warning should be given about the toxicity of the preferred glues.
Softex is a one-part glue that contains numerous solvents that
are considered toxic. Solvents
like those in Softex are absorbed primarily through the skin so tiers
should wash their hands repeatedly during a lengthy tying session.
It is also important to use this glue in an area with adequate
ventilation. I tie next to
a window with an exhaust fan that removes most, if not all, of the fumes
from my tying room. Tiers
that would rather avoid Softex altogether are not without a substitute.
Soft Body glue by Angler’s Choice is also one-part, but is
water-based and therefore does not contain the nasty solvents found in
Softex. Soft Body has an
unusual non-chemical-like scent and evaporates at a much slower pace.
This slower evaporative rate means that your flies will take
longer to set and Soft Body also provides a stiffer and clearer finish. Some
Tips On Tying All
of the different models of Mushmouths follow the same basic steps.
Keep in mind that the belly and back components of the fly must be tied
in while the Softex is still wet. The belly and back materials
must therefore be prepared ahead of time so that they are tied in just
moments after the glue has been applied to the Super Hair tail and the
hook shank. As a rule, the quicker you tie it, the nicer the fly
looks when finished. The
most difficult portion of the tying procedure is learning how to handle
the tying materials prior to tying them in. The thinnest flashes
like Angel Hair or Wing 'N Flash in the standard Mushmouth are the most
difficult material to deal with. These materials are simply finely
shredded mylar tinsel that seem to be on a mission to make your entire
home resemble a ‘70’s disco ball! The easiest way to deal with
this material is to first remove it from the zip tie and then create a
layered bundle by realigning the fibers on a table. Never cut any
of this material with scissors. The strands are fine and weak
enough that you can pull out the necessary amount. Pulling the
material out of the bundle stretches the material just enough to create
a frizzy texture that helps build bulk. Creating a tapered bundle
of flash is truly the key to tying this fly well. A tapered bundle
of mylar is made by pulling out the short fibers and tearing any
undesirably long fibers and then repositioning them in your bobbin hand.
Repeating this action several times will build bulk in the tie-in area
so that a tapered bundle is created. Creating
tapered bundles of other synthetics like Slinkyfibre or Unique Hair is
much easier and can be accomplished by simply pulling out the center
strands to longer lengths. Most people find that Mushmouths made
of Slinkyfibre are the easiest version to tie. This truly is a
technique where practice makes perfect. Don't despair if your
first attempts are not as nice looking as you had originally hoped, as
they will still fish well and every fly looks good when lodged in the
corner of a big fish's jaw! Most
of the Mushmouths you’ll tie will require a slight trimming at the end
of the tying procedure to create a tapered, lifelike baitfish shape.
The easiest method to do this is by positioning the fly
vertically in your vise so that the hook eye is pointing upward.
Trim the fly slowly (you can’t put it back on after you’ve
chopped it off!) with a pair of long-bladed scissors, making your way
upwards from the tail towards the hook eye.
Do this for both the belly and back areas until you are please
with the final shape. It’s
important to have a good pair of serrated scissors with blades that
measure at least 2 inches to trim the fly properly. Your typical trout tying scissors are going to prove slow and
cumbersome and usually leave you with a rough, blocky look to the body.
'Tis
the Season Like
any good pattern, the list of species taken on different Mushys is
extensive. Mushmouths are good all-around searching patterns but
there are certain situations where they seem to excel. The
flashier varieties commonly get bites in tough situations where other
flies fail. Crab and krill hatches, dense schools of small bait
and normally unaffected migratory fish are all situations where a flashy
Mushy often has a better success rate than other approaches. The
Mushy has now fooled nearly every species of pelagic fish from bluefin
tuna and frigate mackerel here in the Northeast to Baja mahi and
roosterfish. Friends have
taken Costa Rican sailfish on giant tandem-hooked models and plenty of
big stripers to thirty-five pounds have shown poor judgment when a
twelve-inch Mega Mushy whizzed by.
There are times, however, when a flashy fly is the worst possible
choice. I have seen fish streak away from a flashy fly in fear on
some days! In particular, bigger striped bass seem to prefer less
flash. Switch to a more
subdued Mushy made of Slinkyfibre or yak hair when overwhelming shine
isn't the ticket. On the
other hand, jacks, bluefish and snook rarely pass up the chance to
demolish a flashy version. Other
fly fishermen have reported similar success with larger freshwater
predators like northern pike and lake-run salmonids.
Take five minutes to whip one up the next time you sit down to
tie. You’ll save at least
that much time on the water when you don’t have to reach out to
untangle a fouled fly every third cast! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The
Mushmouth (standard variety – 2” to 4.5”) A
good imitation of nearly any small baitfish from bay anchovies to juvie
herring and menhaden. Super
Mushy (4” to 9”) A slightly larger Mushmouth
used to imitate medium to large baitfish like alewives, halfbeaks,
tinker mackerel and sardinas. Mega
Mushy (5” to 14”) The largest member of the
Mushy family. Perfect for
full-sized baitfish like adult menhaden and hickory shad.
Also a good choice for billfish with a stinger hook.
It can also be tied in smaller sizes providing a less flashy
alternative to the Super Mushy. Mushy
Squid (5” to 10”) A smart and sparkly squid
imitation. It can also be
tied with a tandem hook for billfish. Peanut
Mushy (1.5” to 4”) A stocky little Mushmouth
used to imitate any small, flat-bodied baitfish like peanut bunker,
juvenile herring, pinfish, pilchards and gizzard shad. Whitebait
Mushy (1.5” to 4”) A super-fast imitation of
any translucent baitfish that exhibits a pearly belly and lateral
stripe. Silversides,
rainbait and immature oceanic herring come to mind, but there are many
others. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 1
Using
clear monofilament thread and a #4 – 2/0 short shank hook, tie in a
tail of white Super Hair mid-shank.
Make sure to taper the ends of the Super Hair by pulling the
center strands out to longer lengths before tying it in.
Take one or two turns of thread under the tail to cock it up at a
slight angle. Step 2
Cut
off six full-length strands of Flashabou and fold it in half and cut it
so you have 12 strands of half-length Flashabou.
Stagger the ends of the flash and fold it in half.
With your thread just in front of the Super Hair tie-in point,
hook the loop of Flashabou (formed by folding the flash in half) under
the hook eye and tie down with the clear thread.
This should put equal amounts of flash of varying lengths on
either side of the Super Hair tail. Step 3Prepare
2 bunches of Wing ‘N Flash, Angel Hair or Lite (Long) Brite for the
body, a light color for the belly and a darker color for the back.
The two bunches should be prepared so that they are longer than
the length of the tail plus about ¾” – 11/4”.
The bunches should be pre-tapered so that the thickest portion of
the bunch is at the tie-in point (just in front of the Super Hair) and
getting progressively thinner towards the tail.
The easiest method to achieve this taper is to PULL (not cut) the
material from the hank and then deal with the material in your fingers.
Take any excess material and pull it from the bunch.
Realign this material in the area of the tie-in point.
Repeat until the necessary taper is acquired. Additional material may be need to gain the proper thickness
and taper. Conversely, you
may initially select too much material and need to remove some. Practice is key. Your
first Mushmouths will probably look horrible, but fish well.
Most people find it much easier to produce a finished-looking fly
after six or eight attempts. Creating
tapered bundles of other synthetics like Slinkyfibre or Unique Hair is
done by simply pulling out the center strands to longer lengths. It
is critical that you prepare your Wing ‘N Flash bunches ahead of time
as you want to tie them in while the Softex or Soft Body glue is still
wet. Apply
a liberal dose of Softex or Soft Body one-part adhesive to the Super
Hair / Flashabou tail along the entire shank and PAST THE BEND.
I find it easiest to use apply the glue with a bodkin. Step 4
Tie
in the light color bunch of Wing ‘N Flash underneath the shank just in
front of the tail (about 1/3 of the way back from
the hook eye) while the glue is still wet.
Take a moment to take the fly out of the vise to equally
distribute the bunch of Wing ‘N Flash on either side of the hook bend.
It is far easier to do this now, before the glue has set, than
later. DO NOT TRIM the butt
ends of the bunch. Step 5
Tie
in the darker color bunch of Long Brite on top of the shank at the same
spot as the bottom bunch (about 1/3 of the way
back from the hook eye) while the glue is still wet.
DO NOT TRIM the butt ends of the bunch. Step 6
Advance
the thread tight to the hook eye, taking care that the dark color stays
on top and the light color stays on the bottom.
Comb through the bunches (both behind and forward of the hook
eye) with a bodkin to remove any snarls that may have formed when
pre-tapering the bunches. Next,
apply an additional liberal coat of Softex or Soft Body around the
exposed thread wraps and along the back PAST THE BEND.
Apply a small amount of glue along the belly fibers. Step 7
Fold
back the remaining Wing ‘N Flash / Lite Brite bunches and tie down. I typically reverse and tie down the dark color first to
prevent any spillover of the dark color to the belly.
Whip finish. Mushmouths
made with Slinkyfibre or other fibers will require a trimming with a
pair of long-bladed scissors for a natural, tapered shape.
Squeeze and stroke the fly until the desired shape is acquired.
Clear the eye area of any random flash filaments as they will
make the epoxy application messy and difficult. Step 8
Apply
eyes, cover with 5-minute epoxy and let dry on a rotating wheel. You’ll find it easier to apply the epoxy if you let the
Softex dry before application. I
can typically apply epoxy to six size 2/0 Mushmouths when moving
quickly. Larger flies and
eye sizes will only let you do two to four flies per epoxy mixing.
Smaller flies and eye sizes will let you do more per mixing.
I do not use 30-minute epoxy for this task as it is less viscous
than 5-minute and tends to bleed into the belly fibers, thereby reducing
the gap. |
